An air conditioner is supposed to produce water — gallons of it a day. It is not supposed to put that water on your floor, your ceiling, or your insulation.
Cooling air also dehumidifies it. In a North Texas summer, a typical home's evaporator coil pulls five to twenty gallons of water out of the air per day, and all of it is supposed to run down the condensate drain and outside. A leak means that path is blocked, broken, or overwhelmed.
In DFW, most air handlers are in the attic — which means a drain problem doesn't show up as a puddle you notice, it shows up as a brown ring on a bedroom ceiling weeks after the leak started. Ceiling stains, damp insulation, or a musty smell near a supply vent all deserve a look the same week.
Turn the system off at the thermostat. It's the only way to stop producing more water, and every hour it runs adds to the damage. Then look for the drain pan under the air handler — if it's full, carefully vacuum or sponge it out so it doesn't overflow again while you wait for us.
If the ceiling below your attic unit is sagging or holding water, don't puncture it and don't stand under it. Call us and we'll handle it.
Almost every leak we're called out for is one of these, and the first one accounts for the majority:
If your system shut itself off and there's water in the pan, a float switch did its job. That safety switch is wired to kill the system when water backs up, precisely so you get an inconvenient warm house instead of a destroyed ceiling.
Don't bypass it and don't let anyone talk you into 'just jumping it out' to get cooling back. Clearing the drain fixes the actual problem, usually in a single visit.
Long cooling seasons, high humidity coming off the Gulf, and 130–150° attics create close to perfect conditions for algae growth inside a condensate line. A drain that has never been serviced will eventually clog — it's a matter of when, not if.
It's also the cheapest failure on the system to prevent. A drain flush and treatment during a maintenance visit takes minutes and is included in our Comfort Club tune-ups.
Nearly always a clogged condensate drain. Algae builds up in the line over a season or two until it blocks completely, and the water backs up into the pan and over the edge. Clearing the line is a routine repair.
No. Every hour it runs makes more water and more damage — especially with an attic air handler over finished ceilings. Turn it off at the thermostat and call.
Sometimes a wet/dry vac on the outdoor end of the drain pulls the clog free. If that doesn't work, or if you can't find the line, or if there's already ceiling damage, stop — forcing it can disconnect fittings inside the attic and make it much worse.
Clearing and treating a drain line sits at the low end of our pricing. A rusted drain pan or a failed condensate pump costs more because there are parts involved. You'll have the exact number before we start.
Your float switch worked. It's a safety device that cuts power when water backs up in the pan. Once the drain is cleared and the pan is dry, the system starts normally again.
Yes. Wet drywall, insulation, and framing in a warm attic are ideal for mold, and it can establish within a couple of days. That's the main reason we treat water leaks as urgent rather than routine.
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